Installing propane cook top

We will also provide propane tanks for lease or assist you with the purchase of a propane tank. For more information, check out our propane tank guide for available tank sizes and common uses. Our team of trained propane professionals are here to help you through the process of installing a propane tank at your home or business.

A licensed professional must install your propane tank and a resident or company employee must be present during the installation.

Once you speak with an AmeriGas representative, our experts may need to perform a site survey at your location to decide the best place and size for your tank. A site survey, if necessary, usually occurs within a week of contacting us.

Since we know the local regulations, we will also provide guidance regarding permits or paperwork. If a site survey is not needed, we will typically be able to schedule your tank installation within seven business days. Underground propane tank installation can take up to a full day to install, including digging.

Trenching services are not available in all areas, but our Representatives will be able to guide you. Above ground tank installation or swapping out an existing above ground tank for an AmeriGas tank, usually takes only a couple of hours, up to a half day.

For an above ground propane tank, we will put a concrete pad or blocks in place before we install your tank. For underground propane tanks we will make sure the hole meets distance and excavation requirements. AmeriGas technicians may be able to dig a hole for an underground propane tank if one does not already exist or does not meet requirements. I am planning in using an outdoor stove which needs unregulated supply, and would be better to have the possibility of placing a Tee in a place more accessible.

I built a wicked cool camper in , but just stumbled across your site when researching heaters. Having been on a couple of open ended, multi-year travel adventures myself, I know how addictive that kind of freedom is. To my questions…I almost ordered the Webasto heater size, quality, already given fuel supply from the huge gas tank but then decided on the Propex since the Webasto seems more high maintenance and especially because it seems to struggle with elevation.

Have you guys used it much above feet? Wondering if you know if there is a modification for the Propex heaters sold in the US or if the lower pressure causes reduced heating performance?

Happy travels!!! The new Espar heaters have built-in altitude sensor, I think we would go with that if we had to start over! This was a well-presented article, and it addresses a similar problem we are trying to solve on our van.

After looking at the propane water heater, as best as I can tell the 20 propane tank connects directly to the heater. You have this running through the regulator, and then to the water heater. Did you remove an internal regulator on the water heater? Thank you. I am in the process of rebuilding a gooseneck toy hauler originally a horse trailer. I will be using manhy of your good ideas. Otherwise, your directions are killer.

I built the locker with the vent the same way and it works perfectly! Thanks so much for making all of this content! Would it work to use 2 Ts instead? How far does the external propane vent need to be from the Van exhaust? Hey there! Do you see any issues using an NTP bulkhead vs a flared? So the locker box is not secured to the wall or the floor? What keeps it from moving around? Do you need a copper gasket where you have 2 brass flare fittings directly connected ex bulkhead fitting to the hose inside the locker?

It seems like the brass would not compress as easily as the copper and may not make a great seal. Thank you so much for this detailed description.

I have two dumb questions for you on the addition of high pressure for the replacement of 1lb tanks. Do you need a shut-off valve at some point in that line? Hope you all are well. Two stage regulator are better at delivering a precise and constant pressure. Propex manual asks for a two-stage regulator.

Thanks for the article! Could you share a link to the Marshall regulator you got? My Camco just failed as well. I am only using a camp chef oven with propane, and since it has a built in regulator I will just be using the flexible tubing.

How would you go about installing the solenoid with flexible tubing? Do you fully remove the propane storage locker when you refill the tank? Or are you just removing the tank from the box? Any idea on when it will be complete? Is there a reason your cross fitting is right at the locker? Have a propex heater, and a propane stove. Hi Isabelle and Antoine, Thanks for the detailed and beautifully presented write up.

We have just bought a Vanagon and the propane system whilst much simpler than yours needs some love. You have collected a bunch of useful information here that I could not find elsewhere. Thanks for sharing. Much appreciated. Currently going through my design process and stuck on electrical vs gas.

Would love to hear your two cents. Thank you for that beautiful web site! When the section about propane vs all electric section will be up. I want to build in december so i have to decide what kind of power system I want! Using the same compressible rubber gasket encased in a plastic nut — the same ones that are used in the plastic RV roof flanges That you can run cables through — are really good solution to running your solenoid wire out from the box!

Thank you for the useful propane system guide. Did you consider a solenoid switch with some sort of auto shut-off after a delay? A mechanical knob switch like some people have for bathroom fans might work but I like the rocker switch and light, and am also thinking there might be a reason this is not done. I am building out a Ford Transit just like your unit. I have used your electrical diagram extensively as well as the propane diagram. I paid for both and have bought everything through the Amazon links.

Thanks so much. You are a great resource. If so can you give me a link? I have a watt inverter that powers a watt induction cooktop and a couple receptacles for the laptop and misc. Thanks so much Tim. If you do this, just make sure to choose an extension cable and an outlet that are rated for higher current than your inverter max current 10A vs 15A vs 20A, etc. Thanks again!.. Dont want to wing it when cutting thru the floor haha.

Ive followed your guide pretty much to the tee, other then some elbows.. I then cross branch off to an oven, a Girard water heater and a suburban furnace.

What do you suggest my next move is? Is your ready static? So make sure to run at least run something like the furnace and THEN take your reading. I tried running my stove because it has an additional little regulator in it and I left like that would combat against too much pressure. I tried this with one, then two, then all three burners and the same thing happened.

Is there any potential that these appliances could be damaged but having this amount of pressure? Any suggestions? Is it the regulator? What do you think? This is the same model we personally use and we get around 11 WC. It is factory set to 11 W. Or get new ones from Amazon and have these one refunded…. I wondered if this was just as quality of an option as doing copper tubing. Antoine, Thanks for your diagrams of which I have purchased three.

I purchased a Propex HS and am studying your diagram as I prepare to install it. If you buy the Propex from a North-American supplier, the install kit should come with the adapter. But it normally runs off of 1lb cylinders. Am I able to run high pressure propane through copper tubing to add a connection closer to my stove that I can connect to? Also, why is a rubber tube acceptable when using an adapter, but not for everything else? I am a little curious why you do not include or have a propane alarm.

Would have warned you of your propane incident, where the knob was bumped. You have power to that side one the van, you could just use the live lead for the propane solenoid. Actually, you could even control it with that switch, as the propane is unlikely to alarm when the tank is shut off. The other thing, did you mention how you did your copper tubing bends? I am filling mine with salt…. We bent the copper by hand… not ideal, but it works for mellow bends. Addendum to previous post: If you are using the cool Ulincos switch that Antoine suggested, you need a larger amp bulb, like an old incandescent brake light or rear light bulb, which draw about 2 amps at a full 12V I think.

The voltage drop over the brake light in series with the solenoid is about 2. And the voltage across the solenoid is about 9 or 10 volts, which is why it doesnt heat up. Hey Don, do you have any advice for how to get one of these bulbs mounted and connected to the circuit? Are there some out there with spade connectors? Or do you have a stand-alone socket for one of these bulbs that can then be wired in?

I found a single bulb holder for a normal old fashion 12V rear brake light. Alas, I have not really been happy with any solution for covering bulb. Right now, the bulb sets in the little hole at the bottom of the back door frame, not really in the way of anything.

For all who worry about the solenoid getting warm or hot: put a 12 V incandescent light in series not parallel! Incandescent lights have almost no resistance when cool, so when you flip on the solenoid, you have full voltage to pull the solenoid switch open.

And your solenoid will stay cool as a cucumber. I put my light outside the locker at the back of the van so when I want to play with the propane, I can see if the switch is on or off. Thanks so much for this resource. One should have a single uninterrupted line from the locker to each appliance. They also suggest the pressure gauge, for performing a leak test, should go upstream of the regulator. To respond to Richard…. I found a really nice bulkhead fitting on Amazon that allows you to pass a hose through it: Trident Marine L.

Also, a question: I am routing my Propex heater duct through the kitchen cabinet, right alongside of my 10 gal plastic fresh water tank. Form your experience, does the duct get hot enough to warm up that cabinet enough to prevent my water from freezing?

If not, what are you guys using to keep water from freezing? The duct get quite hot; so it should help. In our case, we live full time in the van so we never let the temperature go below freezing! In any case, it does not go in easily. I purchased the same solenoid. If I want to add the optional hose to replace disposable 1lb tanks, how would I get the hose out of the gas locker?

Is there a second bulkhead missing from the diagram for this? Because we used the high-pressure hose only for our showers Mr. Heater aquacube at first, we then changed for the Eccotemp which is low-pressure , we just removed the locker cover when using it. I almost went with a propane tank mounted under my transit. Watch out : if you do not use two wrenches you may twist and damage the short nipple that extends from the bottom of the gas cooktop.

You'll be sorry. And you'll need a nut driver sized to match the spuds or orifices to be removed or installed along with a gas leak detector and thread sealant formulated for use on gas piping. As the manufacturers all insist that gas appliances should be installed only by a qualified technician or by a licensed installer as is required by building regulations in some jurisdictions we know you'll have all of these tools and supplies, but it's nice to have them at hand.

For example, the nut driver for modern gas appliance spuds may be a size that you didn't have, or you may have nut drivers only in inch-dimensions and you may need to buy one in metric dimensions to avoid damaging the brass orifice spud.

Sept 28, Anonymous said: The stove works one of my knobe,it's not turning it's not strip it won't turn please help. First try pushing the knob inwards towards the stove. As a child safety feature, newer stove and cooktop control knobs lock in the "off" position unless pushed in before turning. If other knobs work properly on your stove but this one does not, I'd turn off power and fuel to the stove, then try removing the knob assembly for a closer inspection.

You may need to replace it but sometimes we find spilled food, especially sticky food, has fallen into the mechanism and needs removal, perhaps by soaking in a de-greaser or soap solution overnight. Dec 13, Anonymous said: I have a sears gas stove. The only problem is the ignitor does not operate, no click sound, when the front burner handle is turned to lite. However, the ignitor does operate when the rear burner handle is turned to light; the familiar click sound is heard.

The ignitor is the same one for the right side front and back burners. I looked at the electrical connection and it is not loose or have a signs of a short. If your unit has power but there is no click and no spark at the igniters I suspect the control module has failed.